I Love Produceby Chef Nikki Bowen
I love produce. For as long as I can remember, I have. As a kid, my parents would take me to the farmer’s market and the smell of fresh corn, basil, tomatoes, and even string beans would intrigue me. My mom (who never considered herself a foodie or even a good cook) would carry home summer-ripe cucumbers, slicing them and dressing them in a light, and slightly creamy, vinaigrette. The firm flesh of the cucumbers mixed with the acidity of the vinaigrette created the most amazingly refreshing salad, the perfect complement to any summer meal. I was brought back to my childhood summers today while preparing to teach a cheese-making class at Datz. To complement the mozzarella the class was making, I prepared panzanella. For those not familiar, panzanella is Italy’s gift to the world. Don’t misunderstand… I love a good marinara, and there is no substitute for fresh pizza, but in the summer months, there is no comparison. Ripe, sweet tomatoes, refreshing cucumbers, and peppery basil are tossed with hot, toasty bread squares and then drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and white wine vinegar. I saved this incredibly aromatic mixture for the class and added their fresh mozzarella. I never tire of seeing the reaction of first-time fresh mozzarella consumers, and this experience was particularly rewarding. The taste of their mozzarella mixed with the freshness of these summer treats was an overwhelming onslaught of taste sensations. Produce, bought in season and locally, is awe-inspiring. How many hours until the farmer’s market opens? |
Easy, CheesyFor the third time this week, I am pouring a glass of wine while my curds gently soak in their water bath. Already sliced on the plate are some green zebra tomatoes I stumbled upon, champagne mangos (where have these been hiding my whole life?), flaked pink salt from the Murray River in Australia, tender treviso and a basil vinaigrette made with white balsamic vinegar. In less than five minutes, I¹m going to have fresh mozzarella. In ten minutes, dinner. Not just any grocery store mozzarella. No. No. No. We’re talking fresh mozzarella. The creamy, slightly salty tang and gentle toothiness of hand-pulled mozzarella. Mozzarella that I’m making myself. Sometimes a few simple ingredients come together to create something spectacular. The individual elements compliment each other so well that, when combined, the results are so delicious they border on magical. Think bacon and eggs; chocolate and strawberries; brats and beer; mango and mozzarella. Moist, sweet and soft, with a springy yielding texture unlike any other cheese, the process of making fresh mozz is very simple, and the results are blissful. Indeed, the fresh cheese classes at Datz are among the most requested.
Start with a pound of fresh mozzarella curd and three quarts of 150° water. Don¹t believe me? Take the class on Sunday May 16 ($25, 6 pm) and find out. Mango Caprese with Basil Vinaigrette
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Hold Your Nose, and Thank the Monks!There is only a slight difference between B.epidermis, the bacteria found on cloistered regions of the human body, and Brevibacterium linens, found on the skin of a washed-rind cheese. At least when it comes to aroma. So why then do we trust and enjoy, a cheese that smells like body odor, but not body odor per se? For enthusiasts of washed-rind cheese, its bodily odor activates our “cheese pheromones.” Indeed, the cheeses with the funkiest smell ((i.e. Epoisses, Taleggio, Cowgirl Creamery’s Red Hawk, all of which are available at Datz, by the way) often have the sweetest centers that melt like a dream. Their earthy funk adds flair to mild foods, and as they cook, the silkier ones form a sauce that coats food in a film of smooth, creamy luxury. These are cheeses that inspire cooks. You can thank the monks for this lovely discovery. During the Middle Ages, Trappist monks in Europe began rubbing the beer and spirits for which their establishments were celebrated on their cheeses to keep the rinds from cracking. The fact that the practice only made the cheese more delicious was simply fortuitous. Because washed rinds were traditionally Trappist cheeses, it is not surprising that they pair well with beer. The monks who make these cheeses are also master brewers and would naturally want their two creations to taste good together. I like them best with Trappist beers, but they go well with Belgian beers in general, whose slight sweetness plays off the flavors in the washed rind’s interior. Pairing with wine is simple, too. Aromatic whites are generally the way to go. Off-dry Gewurztraminers, Rieslings and lightly oaked Viogniers work like Belgian beers to highlight the cheese’s sweetness. If the cheese is European, it goes especially well with the wines of the region. Epoisses loves pinot noirs and chardonnays from the Burgundy area where it grew up, for example. So hold your nose if you must, but try not to judge a cheese by its odor. If it’s too strong for you on its own, try easing into a good washed rind with a recipe that incorporates it into a classic dish. Like grilled cheese, for instance. In honor of Grilled Cheese Month (April), we present the following recipe: Tallegio Grilled Cheese with Caramelized Onions and Arugula. In this sandwich, melted Taleggio makes one of the creamiest grilled cheeses you will ever taste. Offset by the sweetness of the caramelized onions and peppery arugula, the flavors are perfectly balanced. The crunch offered by country wheat and walnut bread only sweetens the deal.
Makes 2 sandwiches
Directions:
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