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Hold Your Nose, and Thank the Monks!

@datz, General | Monday, March 22nd, 2010 | No Comments

There is only a slight difference between B.epidermis, the bacteria found on cloistered regions of the human body, and Brevibacterium linens, found on the skin of a washed-rind cheese. At least when it comes to aroma. So why then do we trust and enjoy, a cheese that smells like body odor, but not body odor per se? For enthusiasts of washed-rind cheese, its bodily odor activates our “cheese pheromones.” Indeed, the cheeses with the funkiest smell ((i.e. Epoisses, Taleggio, Cowgirl Creamery’s Red Hawk, all of which are available at Datz, by the way) often have the sweetest centers that melt like a dream. Their earthy funk adds flair to mild foods, and as they cook, the silkier ones form a sauce that coats food in a film of smooth, creamy luxury. These are cheeses that inspire cooks.

You can thank the monks for this lovely discovery.

During the Middle Ages, Trappist monks in Europe began rubbing the beer and spirits for which their establishments were celebrated on their cheeses to keep the rinds from cracking. The fact that the practice only made the cheese more delicious was simply fortuitous.

Because washed rinds were traditionally Trappist cheeses, it is not surprising that they pair well with beer. The monks who make these cheeses are also master brewers and would naturally want their two creations to taste good together. I like them best with Trappist beers, but they go well with Belgian beers in general, whose slight sweetness plays off the flavors in the washed rind’s interior.

Pairing with wine is simple, too. Aromatic whites are generally the way to go. Off-dry Gewurztraminers, Rieslings and lightly oaked Viogniers work like Belgian beers to highlight the cheese’s sweetness. If the cheese is European, it goes especially well with the wines of the region. Epoisses loves pinot noirs and chardonnays from the Burgundy area where it grew up, for example.

So hold your nose if you must, but try not to judge a cheese by its odor. If it’s too strong for you on its own, try easing into a good washed rind with a recipe that incorporates it into a classic dish. Like grilled cheese, for instance.

In honor of Grilled Cheese Month (April), we present the following recipe: Tallegio Grilled Cheese with Caramelized Onions and Arugula. In this sandwich, melted Taleggio makes one of the creamiest grilled cheeses you will ever taste. Offset by the sweetness of the caramelized onions and peppery arugula, the flavors are perfectly balanced. The crunch offered by country wheat and walnut bread only sweetens the deal.

Makes 2 sandwiches
Ingredients:

  • 1 medium-sized yellow onion sliced
  • 1 tablespoon canola oil
  • 1 large handful arugula, washed
  • 1/2 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 4 tablespoons butter, room temperature
  • Divided 4 slices country walnut bread
  • 5 ounces sliced Taleggio
  • 1/2 inch thick Pinch of salt

Directions:

  • Begin cooking onions in canola oil in a medium-sized saute pan over high heat for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.
  • Lower heat and cook for 20 minutes, or until onions are caramelized and sweet tasting, stirring occasionally.
  • Add up to 2 tablespoons of water to onions when necessary to prevent burning and sticking. Let cool.
  • Toss arugula with olive oil in a separate bowl.
  • Spread 1/2 tablespoon of butter on one side of each bread slice, using 2 tablespoons total.
  • Begin building one sandwich by spreading 1/2 tablespoon of butter on the unbuttered side of one of the bread slices.
  • Layer half the arugula on top of the butter, followed by half of the Taleggio and half of the caramelized onions.
  • Top with another piece of bread, buttered side up. Repeat steps for the second sandwich.
  • In a medium saute pan over low-medium heat, melt the remaining tablespoon of butter and add the sandwiches, arugula side down.
  • Resist the urge to flip until the first side is golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Flip, turn heat to low, salt the top slice of bread, and wait until the second side is golden brown, about 5 minutes.
  • Serve immediately.

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